Changed s/c pulleys tonight

[Wipeout]

Wow what a difference. Before I was seeing about 7 to 7.5lbs , now I show a solid 11lbs and no detonation! I will get it to a dyno to check for sure though, so 365HP at 7psi what do you think 11psi is giving me?
It sure made it a whole different car:blue:

[red95gts]

Kick ass! I knew you'd do it before long! :)

Any races this weekend?

[Wipeout]

No Darrell I want to wait and have you look at something for me. I want to do the subs first but I want your opinion on my rearend suspension and tranny because getting the power planted is a real bitch. When are ya due back?
We had about 8 stangs uptown at audio source and 3 chevys. The ricers were quarantined to the streets:)

[red95gts]

Right now we're scheduled for 17 Aug, but it'll probably be a couple days before that.

Did you end up getting those LCAs we were talking about?

The first thing in getting your car to hook is going to be tires. Without some sticky tires, no suspension mods will help a whole hell of a lot. After that, a good LCA and chassis stiffning should do the trick...

[Wipeout]

I was looking at the Pro3i LCA'S but didn't know if I should get the adjustables or not. Yes tires are deffinetly a must have, I am looking for 2 rims and a good place to buy some tires, I may say to heck with it and have Nittos put on my rims and use them for summer driving.
What size should I get for my Cobra R rims?

[red95gts]

Well, with a 9" wheel, I would say a 275/40 would fit well withough being too much tire for the wheel.

That being said, a 17" tire is only going to have so much sidewall "give" to help with traction. A ET Street on a 16" wheel (to clear the brakes) would obviously hook the best, but handle/look the worst. The 17" Nitto is going to be a compromise traction-wise, but would be a pretty good choice to drive on every day.

Either way, it should hook better than the radials you currently have.

What kind of power are people with similar combos to yours putting down?

[Wipeout]

Usually guys are anywhere from 365HP to 425HP and similar TQ numbers. I am guessing that I am very close to the 400 mark if not a little over.
Are you saying that the Nittos basicly suck ? heheh

[red95gts]

LOL! No, the Nittos definitely don't suck, but they aren't going to provide you with maximum hook. But they definitely have some pros for driving on them every day.

The best thing to do is decided how you'll really use the tires. If you buy slicks and mount them on different wheels how often will you swap them out so you have traction? I can tell you from experience that changing tires every time you want to have traction gets old. I ended up leaving the slicks on the car and driving on them every day...LOL

The DRs would be nice to have because you could bolt them up and forget about them. That way you'd have some sort of traction in the event a stoplight rumble were to pop up..:) If you plan on getting into the drag racing scene pretty heavy, you might lean more toward the slick option. But, with Walters closed (for the time being at least), Rathgeber down to one lane, and the cops getting pretty strict, the days of local organized racing seem to be about over.

If it were me and that car were mine, I'd do the following:

Subframes and Torque boxes
Good Lower control arms
Drag Radials

That should provide a good improvement while retaining a good street ride. That car is WAAAAY too nice to start compromising it's streetability too much

Just my $.02..hehe

[Wipeout]

Your gonna have to explain the torque boxes because I am totaly lost on that issue.
The Pro3i LCA's are exactly the same as the MM's only about 80.00 cheaper. I think I will opt for the nittos since they hold up better than the BFG's for everyday driving.

[red95gts]

The "torque box" is a three-sided "box" that forms the front attachment point for your LCA. Problem is, Ford decided that tack-welding those in would be plenty strong. Well....when you start making some real power and getting the car to hook...it isn't plenty strong! LOL When you hook, your LCA tries to push forward and down. After repeated abuse, the "box" will begin to rip away from the frame. Once the damage is done, it's a lot more difficult to repair than it is to prevent it in the first pace by welding everything up.

It's easier to see than to put it in words...LOL When I get back, swing by the house and I'll show you what I'm talking about..LOL

[Bubstang]

The equation I found at www.allfordmustangs.com is...

HPafter = ((14.7 + boost)/14.7)*HPbefore

According to this, here's what you'd have...I used the difference between old boost and new boost. (11-7.5=3.5)

((14.7+3.5)/14.7)*365 = 451hp

It will be a bit less as the calc's work on ideal conditions, so temp, air density and such will take the number down a bit.

Cool #'s though!

Congrat's!

Bubba

[Wipeout]

Yikes!! I was thinking closer to 415HP maybe if that. If it does dyno near 450 then I will take a very close look at my fuel and make sure that 255lph and 42lbs injectors are supplying enough.