View Full Version : Removing power steering
Guffinator
02-22-2005, 10:43 AM
In discussion in IRC last night Tyro and a few others suggested that I remove my PS pump. With the issues that I'm having of eating belts and belt length I think I might give this a shot. I've tracked the belt issue down to the PS pump, it appears to be VERY slightly cocked. I'm assuming this is from running a short belt that has basically pulled the PS pulley slightly out of alignment.
My question. In order to eliminate the PS. It appears that I will have to go to a clock-wise rotation water pump. Alan mentioned something about a T-bird water pump. Any more info on this conversion?
Chuck98GT
02-22-2005, 11:06 AM
http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=16133&Category_Code=FordSTG1
This is what I run on my car. If you order it from them, request that they send you an EFI backing plate, because the plate that came with mine didn't match up properly. Also toss the gaskets that come with it and use felpro blue gaskets.
TxBandit
02-22-2005, 12:06 PM
If you go with the standard rotation pump, the correct application is 85-ish T-Bird/Cougar. They are aluminum and standard rotation. When I bought mine it was around $18. Or you can go with the Stewart piece that Chuck mentioned.
I had to modify the holes in the Cobra wp pulley I was using also. They needed to be slotted just a hair as the bolt circle on the pump was a little different than the bolt cirlce on the pulley. This is not an issue as the pulley is "hubcentric" (the WP shaft is what centers the WP pulley, not the bolt holes)
Clear as mud??
Troy
Shaggy
02-22-2005, 12:13 PM
Guff are you running one or two belts with your set up? if you are running two belts and assuming you ac compressor is still on then why would one of the last two in picture not work (ignore teh mad drafting skilz)
http://www.wwtcpu.com/cx/belt.jpg
Guffinator
02-22-2005, 12:49 PM
Yes I am running 2 belts (blower belt is solo). No ac. If I remove my PS the only things left will be crank, WP, ALT and smog pump, which is now all on the passenger side of the motor.
Chad82GT
02-22-2005, 01:28 PM
In discussion in IRC last night Tyro and a few others suggested that I remove my PS pump. With the issues that I'm having of eating belts and belt length I think I might give this a shot. I've tracked the belt issue down to the PS pump, it appears to be VERY slightly cocked. I'm assuming this is from running a short belt that has basically pulled the PS pulley slightly out of alignment.
My question. In order to eliminate the PS. It appears that I will have to go to a clock-wise rotation water pump. Alan mentioned something about a T-bird water pump. Any more info on this conversion?
Have you tried removing and reinstalling the PS pulley? You should be able to rent/borrow the correct tool from a parts shack. It's pretty easy to do and might be worth a shot before re-engineering the whole setup. Unless you eventually want to get rid of the PS anyway, then engineer away :D
Blue91
02-22-2005, 05:05 PM
Just MY opinion, but I'd keep the P/S. Just fix the problem. Make sure all brackets/bolts are in place properly and make sure the pulley is seated correctly. In putting a tight belt on, you might have tweaked the pump/pulley?
I know I had this problem when I changed to a LARGER pulley to try and alleviate fitment problems. As soon as I put the stock p/s pulley back on, my problems went away.
Until the problems are solved, keep getting the Gates belts... they have a 1 yr warranty with receipt. FWIW, the belts that Napa sells are ALSO gates, labeled for Napa, and have the same warranty.
Chad82GT
02-22-2005, 05:57 PM
Until the problems are solved, keep getting the Gates belts... they have a 1 yr warranty with receipt. FWIW, the belts that Napa sells are ALSO gates, labeled for Napa, and have the same warranty.
Hrm, local parts guy also told me that AC Delco belts are Gates... and I eat about 2 per night of racing... wonder if they're warranteed :D Then again, I know the guy behind the counter and he knows how I treat the belts so.... :nono:
Shaggy
02-23-2005, 12:20 PM
Yes I am running 2 belts (blower belt is solo). No ac. If I remove my PS the only things left will be crank, WP, ALT and smog pump, which is now all on the passenger side of the motor.
Agreeing with Fred first as tio keep it before re-engineering it but if you really want o lose the PS and not change water pumps (that would be the easiest way) then what about either A(left side of image) turning your tensioner into a puller by taking it apart and reversing the spring or B mounting it roughly where you PS pump is/was and then using it as a puller because the mounting point is now below the pulley. (hopefully the image can make the explination clear enough)
http://www.wwtcpu.com/cx/belt2.jpg
nintylx
02-23-2005, 09:45 PM
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/3042/belt_2.jpg
Or this way! :blue:
89LX306
02-27-2005, 08:54 PM
This may not matter anymore, but this is how I used to run it on my car. I cut and pasted/modified this from a reply I did on another forum.
This is looking at the tensioner from the back side.
http://www.freepichosting.com/Thumbs/137474/20/1.jpg
My spring is located in Hole C. I believe this is how I ran it with a short belt. I ran ASP 1100 RPM underdrive pullies and ran a Gates PN K060441 belt. I only ran the alternator, water pump and crank.
In the drawing Hole D is directly across from the Locating Tab (A). And Hole C is almost exactly halfway between Hole B and Hole D. All I did was re-clock the spring to Hole C and run it as I described above. I can't recall how I routed the belt and I don't have a Mustang anymore to look at. I did have the tensioner bolted in the stock location and ran a stock water pump. It was really as simple as pulling off the A/C, PS and smog and reclocking the spring and putting on the new belt.
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