Need advice/opinions on a shortblock

[HoustonLX]

Most of you know my car has been returned to having a pretty much bone stock motor. For those that don't, it used to have a nice set of TEA CNC ported heads, TEA ported Holley Systemax intake, and a Bennett cam. That combo untuned and with a very tired 304 c.i. motor ran a best of 12.0 at 112 mph through the T5 and on heavy ass 10 holes at all 4 corners on BFG DR's. Financial reasons (or lack there of) forced the sale of almost all the motor components returning the beast to a slug bitch mid 13 sec car.

This year, performance mods were, for the most part, put on hold while house hunting and and such. Soon, the time will come to attempt to return the beast to its former glory. Something I can actually be proud of.

Here is where I need everyones help. The current 304 in the car (same motor I used with the H/C/I combo) is in need of some serious TLC before the mods start. With that in mind, I am giving serious thought to a 331/347 stroker. My goal, as anyone should have, is to make the beast run mid/low 11's N/A and still be a dependable street car.

First off, I am staying 302 based so no one needs to tell me to just install a 351. Second, to save a little $$$, I am sticking with a stock block. I know both the 331 and 347 with the right parts should easily be enough to attain my goal with room to spare. Which would you guys go with if you were in my shoes and why? I know some feel 347's are hard on stock blocks and some even feel it should never be done. Some say its ok if the motor is built right and tune is good. Most of you already know I love good running N/A cars and mine will be just that. However, I am not saying I will never run nitrous. It may get a little hit from time to time. But even that will be very rare.

Sooooo....with all that, lemme hear it!!!

[Saleen91]

347 N/A

Kits are CHEAP now. You can find them for $800 now with forged pistons, I beam rods, and cast steel cranks. Since you want to stick to N/A you'll be fine with this. Throw in an off-the-shelf cam, heads, and intake and you'll be rocking.

Even then, you can safely squeeze a little (75-125 shot).

[Rusman]

Hey Shane, I'm considering doing exactly what you mentioned and posted about it somewhat recently.
Click here (http://www.pomoforacing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5054) for a ton of good advice/info on this subject.

[LilRedLX]

Dude.........come over to the shop and lemme give you a ride in my car. Cast crank, a bit high on compression, ported TW, Victor EFI intake, solid roller, 69mm TB, and 75 mm old school bullet. Combo has been running for 4 years. Stk rear end (axles, uppers / lowers, and limited slip unit) with 3.55 gears. On these worn out Dunlop radials with these 10 hole wheels my car runs low 12's at low 120 mph with no dope.

This is the cast crank, stk block, and everything your not suppose to do and I swear by it. Its a Scat crank, rods, with SRP's.

When its cold the idle quality sucks but blame that on half the sensors being unused and the computer being confussed.

I told Russ the same thing I'll tell you........I love this combo and its the long lasting cheap way to do it, IMHO.

[White90GT]

My combo similar to Lee's went a best of 11.46@117 in 7x degree weather, then at the last clobberthon went 11.60@116.x on motor. Mine was slow for a 347 as many know, but it'll get you to where you want to be.