Neighbors
07-02-2002, 08:57 PM
Homebuilt harmonic balancer installer…
Installing a harmonic balancer can be a trying task, and one that often leads to damage to the crankshaft threads or broken fasteners (and much dinero to have it fixed, unless you’re a PoMoFo). They make professional balancer installers, but they can be quite costly, and unavailable at 1:00a.m. on a Saturday morning.
The PoMoFo solution? Why, build your own of course! The things can be made fairly easily and cheaply, and greatly simplify installation while reducing the risk of damage to the balancer and crank. The details below outline how to build a Ford harmonic balancer installation tool.
Parts required:
1 - 5/8-18NF grade 8 all thread x 8-3/4” long (or so; I bought a 36” stick and cut it into four equal lengths)
2 – 5/8-18NF grade 8 nuts
2 – 5/8 hardened flat washers
1 – T5 input to main shaft thrust bearing (you have blown up a T5, haven’t you? Well, keep the parts!)
1 – 3/16” roll pin (from a…T5!)
1 – 1/2” pipe coupling, approx 2-1/2” long* (or 2-1/2" of 3/4" pipe...)
1 – heavy duty washer with a 2” O.D. (maybe two)*
Note: The above “*” marked items can be substituted for a 3” diameter slug of round bar (or plate) with a 11/16” diameter hole drilled through the middle).
Assembly:
Cut the all-thread to length, and chamfer both ends on a bench grinder or high-speed sander.
Screw one nut onto the all-thread until it is flush with the end.
Drill a 3/16” diameter hole completely through the nut and all-thread.
Drive the 3/16” roll-pin into the hole until flush on one side. Remove the extra length with a grinder or sander (this ‘locks’ the nut to the all-thread).
Weld the heavy 2” washer to the pipe coupling (I had a threaded pipe flange that I found fit the ID of a Ford balancer perfectly!)
Screw the other nut onto the all-thread, up close to the ‘fixed’ nut…
[/list=1]
Use:
[list] Start the balancer onto the snout of the crank, after applying a light coat of oil or anti-seize…
Slide one hardened washer, the thrust bearing, then the other hardened washer onto the all–thread…
Lubricate the all-thread with anti-seize or light oil to reduce friction and galling...(added per D!)
Slide the pipe coupler/washer weldment (or drilled slug/plate) onto the all-thread, and screw the whole assembly into the crank snout (screw it in as far as possible, minimum 1”…)
Screw the ‘loose’ nut on the all-thread while holding the fixed nut, thereby drawing the balancer into position.
Once seated completely, remove the installer assembly and store in a safe place (I keep mine in tool box :D!).
You may find that the 8-3/4” long length of all-thread is a bit too long to install a balancer in the car. I was able to use mine on my ‘91LX without trouble, but the end did stick into the fan blade area a bit. I think a 7” to 7-1/2” long piece would be about right…
Have fun!
Installing a harmonic balancer can be a trying task, and one that often leads to damage to the crankshaft threads or broken fasteners (and much dinero to have it fixed, unless you’re a PoMoFo). They make professional balancer installers, but they can be quite costly, and unavailable at 1:00a.m. on a Saturday morning.
The PoMoFo solution? Why, build your own of course! The things can be made fairly easily and cheaply, and greatly simplify installation while reducing the risk of damage to the balancer and crank. The details below outline how to build a Ford harmonic balancer installation tool.
Parts required:
1 - 5/8-18NF grade 8 all thread x 8-3/4” long (or so; I bought a 36” stick and cut it into four equal lengths)
2 – 5/8-18NF grade 8 nuts
2 – 5/8 hardened flat washers
1 – T5 input to main shaft thrust bearing (you have blown up a T5, haven’t you? Well, keep the parts!)
1 – 3/16” roll pin (from a…T5!)
1 – 1/2” pipe coupling, approx 2-1/2” long* (or 2-1/2" of 3/4" pipe...)
1 – heavy duty washer with a 2” O.D. (maybe two)*
Note: The above “*” marked items can be substituted for a 3” diameter slug of round bar (or plate) with a 11/16” diameter hole drilled through the middle).
Assembly:
Cut the all-thread to length, and chamfer both ends on a bench grinder or high-speed sander.
Screw one nut onto the all-thread until it is flush with the end.
Drill a 3/16” diameter hole completely through the nut and all-thread.
Drive the 3/16” roll-pin into the hole until flush on one side. Remove the extra length with a grinder or sander (this ‘locks’ the nut to the all-thread).
Weld the heavy 2” washer to the pipe coupling (I had a threaded pipe flange that I found fit the ID of a Ford balancer perfectly!)
Screw the other nut onto the all-thread, up close to the ‘fixed’ nut…
[/list=1]
Use:
[list] Start the balancer onto the snout of the crank, after applying a light coat of oil or anti-seize…
Slide one hardened washer, the thrust bearing, then the other hardened washer onto the all–thread…
Lubricate the all-thread with anti-seize or light oil to reduce friction and galling...(added per D!)
Slide the pipe coupler/washer weldment (or drilled slug/plate) onto the all-thread, and screw the whole assembly into the crank snout (screw it in as far as possible, minimum 1”…)
Screw the ‘loose’ nut on the all-thread while holding the fixed nut, thereby drawing the balancer into position.
Once seated completely, remove the installer assembly and store in a safe place (I keep mine in tool box :D!).
You may find that the 8-3/4” long length of all-thread is a bit too long to install a balancer in the car. I was able to use mine on my ‘91LX without trouble, but the end did stick into the fan blade area a bit. I think a 7” to 7-1/2” long piece would be about right…
Have fun!