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View Full Version : Venting! Glories of stroker assemblies in stock blocks!



White90GT
08-13-2003, 06:45 AM
I've got my motor back from the shop and started working on it Saturday. I got the crank set in place Saturday after washing the block and spreading assembly lube in all the important places. Turned out I didn't have the right Rod bearings for the Eagle rods, so the machinist had to pick me up another set which I got Monday. Didn't get to work on it Monday, so I had hoped to get at least the long block together last night. Well, didn't happen. I got all the rings gapped Saturday and installed on the pistons, then last night started putting in the pistons. Anyone who has done it knows its a PITA to have to put on the piston ring squeezer and install each piston without the rings popping out of the squeezer and having to start over. After about 3-4 hours I finally had all 8 pistons in. Keep in mind that after each piston went in and was bolted down, that I turned the crank over to make sure nothing was hitting/binding. When number 3 and number 7 pistons were in, I did feel a slight clunk when turning the motor over, but it still turned fairly easily. I was going to chalk it up to pistons slap or something like that. Well, when #4 and #8 pistons were installed I turned the motor over and it wouldn't turn completely over. Damnit! I got to looking and it appeared that the #8 rod was hitting the bottom of the #4 cylinder and wouldn't go beyond.
So long story short, I had to pull out all the pistons again (after spending 3-4 hours last night assembling it) and notch the block for more clearance. I had looked at my old motor/block and matched this one to it, just notching the topside of the cylinder bore (looking at the motor from the oil pan side, the outter side of the skirt, not the inner/bottom side). So apparently, the difference in casting from Ford made me have to notch this block slightly for rod clearance.
So about 9:45 last night I'm out in the driveway with a air die grinder grinding away at my block, then by 10:15 I'm outside with the water hose and a soapy rag wiping all the metal out of the bores and block, then by 10:30 I'm in the garage spreading more engine assembly lube in the block so it don't rust and prepping it to put the crank and pistons back in tonight! What a PITA!
For those that don't know, this notching is what is done for a 347 kit to be installed in a factory block.
All this could've been avoided had I just mocked everything up without the rings on the pistons, but that would've been almost as much work, it just would've been done ahead of time.
So hopefully the longblock will be together tonight!

Alex in Houston
08-13-2003, 07:55 AM
then last night started putting in the pistons. Anyone who has done it knows its a PITA to have to put on the piston ring squeezer and install each piston without the rings popping out of the squeezer and having to start over. After about 3-4 hours I finally had all 8 pistons in

Man I feel your pain. I always thought it was because of my Craftsman brand ring compressor. Guess it's just a pain no matter what.

FE_rex
08-13-2003, 08:10 AM
That sucks

I'll have to get a pic of the ring comp I use.

I ALWAYS put everything together w/o rings first to check piston to valve clearance and plasticgauge every bearing - guess that's why I'm slow about putting together shortblocks. Usually takes me a couple weekends cause I don't like to stop in the middle. Really hurts for me to do it this way cause I get bored with repetitive stuff real fast.

Wild Stallion
08-13-2003, 09:03 AM
I use the funnel style ring compressor. I'm gonna buy one pretty soon, they are the shiznit. you simply center it on the bore you want and wipe the insides liberally with oil, then using a wooden hammer handle, tap it down inside. Of course you have some nylon air hose over your rod bolts I cut those about 12-14 inches long and they'll guide the rod straight onto the rod journal.

I usually take the long route on my junk, but mic the journal and the pretorqued bearing assembled for proper clearances that way you don't have to put the piston in and out 5-6 times to file the bearing ends down.

White90GT
08-13-2003, 10:23 AM
I don't have rod studs sticking out of my rods, these rods use 12 point headed 7/16 ARP rod bolts that screw straight into the rods.

Wild Stallion
08-13-2003, 10:40 AM
DOOOH! I forgot, well then in that case, you get 2 1 inch long7/16 set screws and run them in with the nylon hose on as a guide.

FE_rex
08-14-2003, 09:43 PM
Tool I was talking about. Handle has a ratchet - hard to see. Clamps band on piston and holds, you shove piston down hole

FE_rex
08-14-2003, 09:45 PM
Tool on piston. Note pliers grab toward bottom of band. Very importnt to square band to block before pushing

Otis!
08-14-2003, 09:57 PM
My small collection; I've always used the middle one (bad), but plan to use 'good' on the 347 and 357...

O!

FE_rex
08-14-2003, 10:08 PM
I'd love to have one of those solid ones. My toys come with holes of various sizes:razz:
Std bores of 4.00, 4.05, 4.13, 4.23, 4.36

Otis!
08-14-2003, 10:14 PM
LOL! I know they make a split one (with a worm clamp) that'll do a range, but I don't think the range is that big, LOL!


I 'think' I gave about $30 for the solid (maybe $35), but seeing how most everything I do will be 4.030", it was an easy decision to make. I've had good luck with the 'corrugated' one, but wanted to try the tapered model. I don't think I'll even use the 'ugly' one :D...

O!

White90GT
08-15-2003, 06:17 AM
The one I'm using is the same is the one on the right that Chris shows.

89 coupe
08-15-2003, 09:53 AM
Carl I use the middle one. IMO it works like a champ.