Otis!
03-05-2003, 01:34 PM
uh, I foun this this mornin' while snoopin' around on the bosses 'puter. I was diggin fer some good pics, and discuvered this. Thought you'ins might lik it...
8.8 gear install: The condensed version…
Jack car up, supported by framerails/SFC’s (goal: let rear hang as low as possible)
Remove rear wheels and brake drums
Remove nine of the ten cover fasteners; pry cover loose and let oil drain in pan
Remove last fastener and cover
Check backlash and run-out for reference; record on worksheet
Set park brake/car in gear, and remove four driveshaft fasteners (12mm 12-point)
Support DS on a length of wood/pipe/tube placed across the top of the mufflers
Roll diff around until you see the 5/16” headed fastener that holds the pin; remove it…
Push the pinion gear pin out of the carrier
Push the axles in towards the center of the car to unseat C-clips (on end of axle) and remove clips
Carefully slide axles out, taking care not to damage seals
Inspect axles for spalling/pitting/grooving; replace if damaged (they will make noise!)
Punch (match) mark (or letter stamp) the diff bearing caps and housing
With a ¾” socket, break the four diff cap fasteners loose and back out about a half an inch or so…
Pull or pry out diff from housing (I use the car jack handle; through the center of the carrier)
Remove the fasteners and caps, placing on a large cookie sheet (trust me!)
Pull out diff, races, and shims all at once (wrap fingers around to ID); place on cookie sheet…
Measure and record the shims thicknesses for each side; record on worksheet
Measure pinion bearing preload for ref and record (1-1/16” socket and in-lb beam torque wrench)
Hold the pinion with a gloved hand, and remove nut w/1-1/16” socket and impact
Remove flange (may require puller)
Tap pinion out towards rear of car, if it does not come freely…
Remove front seal, making sure to catch the oil slinger and front bearing
Clean housing, and inspect bearing races for damage (replace as required; drivers are great!)
Carrier on bench: remove eight of the ten ring gear fasteners; back the other two out ¼” or so…
With hammer and punch, tap ring gear off of diff (interference fit w/diff)…
Remove last two fasteners and ring gear
Rebuild T-lok now, if need be (see: T-lok rebuild: the condensed version)
Clean new ring, and DA (sand, or flat stone) the back (mating) side of the gear to remove burrs
Place in oven at 200-250F for about twenty minutes
When ready, place carrier inside of heated ring gear and pull into place; make sure to align holes!
(Alt to above: cut a couple heads off of fasteners for alignment pins)
Apply a drop or two of blue Loc-tite (242; removable) to the RG fasteners, and install them finger tight
Torque fasteners in a pattern (I tighten every third fastener; works out!) in 25, 50, then 75 ft-lb increments
Remove rear pinion bearing with a bearing seperator and press; measure and record shim thickness…
Remove crush sleeve and record thickness
Clean new pinion; install pinion shim (same or = thickness), and press bearing on pinion (anti-seize!)
Pre-crush new crush sleeve in press to within .030”-.060” of original thickness (makes things easier)
Anti-seize the threads and splines on the pinion
Place new crush sleeve on pinion and bearing assembly; place into housing from rear…
Install front bearing, slinger, then new seal (apply a bead of RTV to seal shell; tap into place)
Install flange and nut; hold flange with hand and run nut down until it bottoms out
Pull the flange to get a feel for axial (fore and aft) endplay
Tighten the nut with an impact, a little at a time until endplay is gone
Take bearing preload reading w/torque wrench (this is force DURING rotation, or drag)
Tighten the nut w/impact in small increments, checking preload Install diff assembly into housing, with shims back in the previous location; install caps and tighten
Check backlash in several spots; adjust shims as required to achieve .008”-015” (target: .008”-.010”)
Check ring gear run-out on back side of diff; should be no greater than .004” total…
Final install caps and fasteners, and torque to 75 ft-lbs
Install axles, C-clips, pinion gear pin, and pin fastener
Apply RTV to cover; let set for ten minutes, then install.
Fill w/oil through vent (on top of passenger side tube) w/ 2.5 qts…
Install driveshaft with a drop or two of Loc-tite 242 (blue) on fasteners
Install drums and tires
Break-in by driving 10-30 miles, then letting cool to room temp
Don’t forget speedo gear!
Boy, I's shure hope I dont git inta trouble fer that...
I'll sees if I can find the gear werksheit foer you guys to; I'll try to figgur out how to make one of them thar pdf (pedafile?) out of it...Check artikles toonight
Otis
...ur humbel servent...
8.8 gear install: The condensed version…
Jack car up, supported by framerails/SFC’s (goal: let rear hang as low as possible)
Remove rear wheels and brake drums
Remove nine of the ten cover fasteners; pry cover loose and let oil drain in pan
Remove last fastener and cover
Check backlash and run-out for reference; record on worksheet
Set park brake/car in gear, and remove four driveshaft fasteners (12mm 12-point)
Support DS on a length of wood/pipe/tube placed across the top of the mufflers
Roll diff around until you see the 5/16” headed fastener that holds the pin; remove it…
Push the pinion gear pin out of the carrier
Push the axles in towards the center of the car to unseat C-clips (on end of axle) and remove clips
Carefully slide axles out, taking care not to damage seals
Inspect axles for spalling/pitting/grooving; replace if damaged (they will make noise!)
Punch (match) mark (or letter stamp) the diff bearing caps and housing
With a ¾” socket, break the four diff cap fasteners loose and back out about a half an inch or so…
Pull or pry out diff from housing (I use the car jack handle; through the center of the carrier)
Remove the fasteners and caps, placing on a large cookie sheet (trust me!)
Pull out diff, races, and shims all at once (wrap fingers around to ID); place on cookie sheet…
Measure and record the shims thicknesses for each side; record on worksheet
Measure pinion bearing preload for ref and record (1-1/16” socket and in-lb beam torque wrench)
Hold the pinion with a gloved hand, and remove nut w/1-1/16” socket and impact
Remove flange (may require puller)
Tap pinion out towards rear of car, if it does not come freely…
Remove front seal, making sure to catch the oil slinger and front bearing
Clean housing, and inspect bearing races for damage (replace as required; drivers are great!)
Carrier on bench: remove eight of the ten ring gear fasteners; back the other two out ¼” or so…
With hammer and punch, tap ring gear off of diff (interference fit w/diff)…
Remove last two fasteners and ring gear
Rebuild T-lok now, if need be (see: T-lok rebuild: the condensed version)
Clean new ring, and DA (sand, or flat stone) the back (mating) side of the gear to remove burrs
Place in oven at 200-250F for about twenty minutes
When ready, place carrier inside of heated ring gear and pull into place; make sure to align holes!
(Alt to above: cut a couple heads off of fasteners for alignment pins)
Apply a drop or two of blue Loc-tite (242; removable) to the RG fasteners, and install them finger tight
Torque fasteners in a pattern (I tighten every third fastener; works out!) in 25, 50, then 75 ft-lb increments
Remove rear pinion bearing with a bearing seperator and press; measure and record shim thickness…
Remove crush sleeve and record thickness
Clean new pinion; install pinion shim (same or = thickness), and press bearing on pinion (anti-seize!)
Pre-crush new crush sleeve in press to within .030”-.060” of original thickness (makes things easier)
Anti-seize the threads and splines on the pinion
Place new crush sleeve on pinion and bearing assembly; place into housing from rear…
Install front bearing, slinger, then new seal (apply a bead of RTV to seal shell; tap into place)
Install flange and nut; hold flange with hand and run nut down until it bottoms out
Pull the flange to get a feel for axial (fore and aft) endplay
Tighten the nut with an impact, a little at a time until endplay is gone
Take bearing preload reading w/torque wrench (this is force DURING rotation, or drag)
Tighten the nut w/impact in small increments, checking preload Install diff assembly into housing, with shims back in the previous location; install caps and tighten
Check backlash in several spots; adjust shims as required to achieve .008”-015” (target: .008”-.010”)
Check ring gear run-out on back side of diff; should be no greater than .004” total…
Final install caps and fasteners, and torque to 75 ft-lbs
Install axles, C-clips, pinion gear pin, and pin fastener
Apply RTV to cover; let set for ten minutes, then install.
Fill w/oil through vent (on top of passenger side tube) w/ 2.5 qts…
Install driveshaft with a drop or two of Loc-tite 242 (blue) on fasteners
Install drums and tires
Break-in by driving 10-30 miles, then letting cool to room temp
Don’t forget speedo gear!
Boy, I's shure hope I dont git inta trouble fer that...
I'll sees if I can find the gear werksheit foer you guys to; I'll try to figgur out how to make one of them thar pdf (pedafile?) out of it...Check artikles toonight
Otis
...ur humbel servent...