PDA

View Full Version : Crankcase Evacuation Pump



maveRick
05-23-2002, 12:50 AM
After going through four seized crankcase evacuation pumps, I'm going to try yet another.

I have decided to try the GM "Air Injector Reactor Pump", or "AIR" pump (GM p/n 12568241 (www.gmpartsdirect.com)) used on late model GM 5.7L's (Camaro, Firebird, etc).

Background:
The first two I went through were Ford Racing's P/N 9486-A460 ($175+) belt driven pumps. The second two were modified (3 or 4 vein) from a Powerstoker smog pump and also belt driven.

All of these pumps are belt driven. They replace the existing smog pump on the 5.0 block (low position allows hot oil to readily enter pump).

All the pumps were eventually junked because oil got into the system and caused the heated veins to seize the pump (which, in turn, caused other problems while on the road).

Both large diameter hoses (#12 AN) and small diameter (3/8" polymer) hoses were used as vacum lines in the system at differenet stages of development.

The location of the #12 braided line was first connected to a fitting welded to the rear of the lower intake with a fabricated baffle located at the lower outlet.

It was thought the g-force during acceleration was causing oil to contaminate the pump. The #12 line was discarded and replaced by two (2) 3/8" lines located on the top of the valve cover near the front of the engine.

Some form of adjustment (via volume change, valves, various size pulleys, etc.,) was used to regulate vacuum (from 5Hg at idle to 15Hg max at 6000 rpm's) on all the pumps.

Also, a catch can ("jazz" can) was used to accumulate the excessive oil prior to entering the pumps to prevent contamination on all the setups.

After consulting with a well-renowned bow-tie engine builder, I was told that going to the more expensive ($360+) Moroso pump (P/N 710-22640) (http://www.jegs.com/photos/71022640.jpg) would also seize up with “that much oil getting to the pump” (note: Chevy blocks have an 'oil restrictor' location in the rear of the block to limit the amount of oil going to the top of the heads, Jeg's P/N 892-2415 (http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=20623&prmenbr=361) are typically used).

Three major problems associated with 5.0 blocks and crankcase evacuation systems (on street/strip usage) are;

1) The pump is located much lower than the highest level of oil in the engine (allowing gravity fed oil to enter into the pump).
2) All the Ford pumps run off the crank (robbing a portion of the h.p. gained by using an evacuation system).
3) I am not aware of any features similar to GM's that would lend itself to using 'off-the-shelf' flow restrictors (I was advised by a few mechanics that I should put pipe-cleaners in the push rods to limit the volume of oil going to the topside of the heads).


The reasons I am going to try the GM "Air Injector Reactor ("AIR")Pump" are:

1) Ford Tech Representatives failed to provide me a solution to the problem.
2) The "AIR" pump runs off 12V and pulls relatively little current vs. robbing horse power from engine.
3) It also runs at a constant speed (as opposed to running at the rpm of the engine) and should be easier to manage once the desired amount of vacuum is achieved.
4) The "AIR" pump can be located ABOVE the valve covers - providing less of a chance to pick up oil droplets (via the benefit of gravity alone).
5) The price of the “AIR” pump is $98.00
6) The inlet diameter of the "AIR" pump is 7/8" (volume sufficient to prevent droplets of oil to rise into the vacuum lines).

My intent is to use the raised oil 'spout' found on a typical set of 5.0 valve covers (located near the front of the engine) as the crankcase evacuator line outlet. I intend to weld another raised spout on the opposite valve cover (nearest to the front of the engine).

I'll try to take good pics of the installation. I’ll also contribute a write-up upon the completion (good or bad) of this attempt at obtaining a reliable and affordable crankcase evacuation system for street/strip SBF’s.

red95gts
05-23-2002, 01:01 AM
How large is the pump?

Let us know how it turns out Rick!

maveRick
05-23-2002, 10:47 AM
D,

Sorry, but I couldnt' find any pics on the internet to show (and my digital camera isn't working right now).

The pump itself is about 3/4 the size of a standard smog pump on 5.0's. It's made mostly of plastic and aluminum (weight = ~1 to 1-1/2 Lb).

The diameter is approximately 4-1/2" at its widest point and the o.a.l. is ~6".

An added benefit to this pump is the location of the mounting flange. The flange is located about 2-1/2" from the front of the pump (along the center axis).

My intention is to utilize the mounting flange by cutting an access hole (2-1/2" dia) in the engine bay to allow the motor end of the pump to be recessed (~3-1/2" deep), leaving only 2-1/2" of the pump sticking out. The flange can then simply be bolted to the fender well (or wherever) using the three bolt holes on the flange.

Another note: I believe this pump is (was?) used only on California cars so I don't think opening a F-body buddy's hood to examine it will do any good. ??

TxBandit
05-23-2002, 01:45 PM
I will do a little research that may help you out. I may be mistaken, but as I recall Ford put an electric vacuum pump on some of the Cobras. I'll see if I can dig up some info for you.
I am planning on doing the same thing on my car, but I will not see many street miles.

Troy

TxBandit
05-23-2002, 01:55 PM
OK...the Ford part number is F6ZZ-9A486-DA. It's an electric pump used on the Cobras as a smog pump. Only drawback is the $189 price tag. I hate to have to put a Chevy part on the car, but if it means saving $100 I'm there.

Troy

maveRick
05-23-2002, 02:30 PM
If it means putting a HONDA part on mine to save a hundred bucks, I'll do it! (I might have exaggerated a little bit on that one)


What year did they start putting them on the cobras and why not on 'standard issue's I wonder?

I'd also like to see one of the systems installed (will research web and return - hoping TxBanidt has alredy posted pic and schematics) :D

Shaggy
05-23-2002, 06:11 PM
Hey rick let me look I think I might have the electric pump off a chevy truck in my garage I will get back to you later on it.

TxBandit
05-23-2002, 09:44 PM
Ok, I have done a little looking and I can't come up with a pic of the pump installed. I guess I'll have to get off my butt and get mine done so I can get some photos to you guys.

Now I have some motivation!!

I know I'll have some pics of the motor installed next week. I'll have to e-mail them to someone b'cuz I have no clue how to post them. Hopefully the install will happen early next week.

Troy

Neighbors
05-23-2002, 10:00 PM
Hey Troy, I discovered the little 'attach file' box (white box) when you make a reply about two weeks ago. It allows you to add pictures directly from your PC w/o having to host them somewhere...

Like this...

(sorry for the subject matter)

TxBandit
05-23-2002, 10:13 PM
Cool!!! Thanks Chris...


Troy

Neighbors
05-23-2002, 10:41 PM
Yea, I stumbled onto it the other night; allows us 'no website having fools' to post pics...

Glad you got it!

Chris

Bubstang
05-25-2002, 11:58 AM
Rick,
My b-in-law runs a Corvette electric pump on his Bandit car and he loves it. Said it was about $100. Wonder if its the same? Send me a model# of the one you are using.

Later,
Bubba

maveRick
05-25-2002, 03:15 PM
Originally posted by Bubstang
Rick,
My b-in-law runs a Corvette electric pump on his Bandit car and he loves it. Said it was about $100. Wonder if its the same? Send me a model# of the one you are using.

Later,
Bubba

Bubba,

The P/N I found is 12568241 for a '96 Camaro.

The Corvette ('96 year) P/N is 24505066 and is also $100.00

Hmmm....don't know?

I'm in the middle of 'fixin' my cheapy digital camera (damm zeros and ones!) and I should have a pic of the pump shortly.

Rusman
05-25-2002, 03:33 PM
Originally posted by maveRick

2) All the Ford pumps run off the crank (robbing a portion of the h.p. gained by using an evacuation system).


Rick, or anyone with knowledge of this subject, is this the same thing as the Smog pump?

Also, you say an evacuation system gains power. Can you explain this, and roughly how much power is gained? I always thought smog pumps (I'm ass-u-me-ing that these are one and the same) were purely something to appease the enviro-nazi's.

The reason I ask is because my other car has a 350 in it and I'd like to put one of these suckers on there, if it gains me some power.

Shaggy
05-25-2002, 06:56 PM
Well rick sorry I can't find the one I know I have around here somewhere. :(

maveRick
05-26-2002, 06:44 PM
(poor quality) photos of P/n 12568241) used on late model GM 5.7L's (Camaro, Firebird, etc). "Air Injector Reactor".

http://users3.ev1.net/~rickbook/532.jpg
http://users3.ev1.net/~rickbook/0526.jpg http://users3.ev1.net/~rickbook/530.jpg

maveRick
05-26-2002, 08:00 PM
Rusty,

I haven't been avoiding your question. I'm trying to put together a Reader's Digest version of an explanation in layman's (our) terms.

Given 'Friction' robs horse power, check these links out in the mean-time:

http://www.weekendmechanicsclub.com/ACDelco/vobeng6.htm

http://www.theengineshop.com/feature7.shtml (read "Vacuum Pump")

http://google.yahoo.com/bin/query?p=crankcase+%26+vacuum+%26+%22power%22+-chainsaw&hc=0&hs=0

The amount of hp 'gain' depends largely on the amount of friction between the piston rings and the cylinder walls.

There's no 'rule of thumb' number, I don't believe, of estimating how much hp can be gained. Some claim a 'range' between 3%-7% h.p. increase (over a standard benchmark). It doesn't amount to a tremdous amount when you consider a gain of only 7 hp is obtained on a 300 hp engine (conservative). However, as the 'benchmark' hp increases, the gain in hp rises in porportion. A 30-70 hp gain can be achieved on a 1000 hp engine. For the record, a gain of 12-28 hp can be a 'freed' on a 400 h.p. engine. I would guess it comes down to $/hp ratio to determine if one uses it or not (in the street app).

The Moroso pump and limited production mounting brackets are relatively expensive.

Additionally, the Moroso pump is belt driven (off the crank). Any load (A/C, PS, Water Pumps, Smog Pumps, AIR Pumps, etc) rob horsepower from the engine ("work" is required to rotate these components. "Work" can only be achieved by providing horsepower in order to resist energy - stored or otherwise) .

The intent of this particular exercise (using the off-the-shelf electric pump) is to find a PoMoFo's method to freeing-up or in essence, 'gaining' horses.

I'm sure I'll edit this later - didn't proof read - (late for date)

Bubstang
05-27-2002, 04:37 PM
the pump puts a negative pressure, vacuum, on the crankcase eliminating pressure that is generally built up. This allows the back side of the piston to return to bottm dead center without having to buck the crankcase pressure.

It is also handy in preventing oil leaks, especially if you have a two piece rear main seal.