Who makes the best 331

here is all the info i could find, please review it and tell me where you think i should go. ***NO SHIT TALKING PLEASE****

The D.S.S. BULLET 331 SHORT BLOCK is engineered to offer the perfect balance between race winning power and long term reliability. This engine is a great way to get Windsor power and torque without the expense of a 351 swap or the maintenance problems commonly associated with other stroker combinations. By using a 5.315” rod we are able to use a taller piston for increased stability, better ring seal and longer life. This custom piston also keeps the pin bore below the oil ring for proper oil control. With it’s superior rod/ piston design, excellent 1.63 rod ratio and an ideal ring package for power adders, the D.S.S. BULLET 331 SHORT BLOCK is by far the best performing, longest lasting stroker short block on the market..

Race Prepped Production Block
Power Adder Ring Package
Custom Forged Stroker Pistons
4340 Forged Steel 5.315” Rods

3.25” Stroke Cast Steel or Forged crank

D.S.S. Stroker Main Support System

Excellent 1.63 Rod Ratio

Each D.S.S. BULLET 331 Short Block begins with a with a race prepped block that has been deck squared and equalized, precision bored and honed with torque plates and fitted with the D.S.S. Stroker Main Support System and custom ARP main studs. This combination includes custom forged stroker pistons available for most aftermarket heads, premium Sealed Power/ Speed-Pro moly rings and TRW/ Federal Mogul bearings. We use 4340 Forged Steel 5.315” connecting rod and a super strong, Cast Steel 3.25” stroke crank for the ultimate in strength and longevity. We offer optional compression ratios and cam and timing chain options, just tell us what you want and we’ll quote a combination for you. If you are looking for a stroker that makes 30 to 40 horsepower more than most larger stroker combinations and is equally at home on the street or strip, you need the bullet 331 short block.

331SB1000 Bullet 331 Flat Top…reg. $3399.95………………...$2999.95

Optional Forged Steel Crank……………………………………..Add $300.00
Optional R 302 block upgrade..................................Add $2000.00


Keith Craft Racing Engines Inc.

331 Strocker Plus kit short block
Billet steel crank
Eagle Rods
JE, diamond or Ross Pistons
Plasma moly rings
Federal Mogul bearings
Price $2,895.00 870-246-7460


WYNNE Racing Engines

331 short block
4340 steel crank
H-beam rods
SRP Pistons
JE Rings
Clevite bearings
Timing chain kit
Oil pump
Camshaft $2,495 877-996-6375


D&D Motor sports INC.
331 short block
New Comp block
5140 forged steel crank
4340 H-beam rods
JE/SRP Pistons
Moly Rings
Bearings
Main Support
Balanced and Blue printed and comp assembled
Price $2,395 661-260-2226

Add $125 for 4340 crank
Add $179 for dome or dish pistons


Coast High Performance

331 Dominator
• 4.030" Forged Probe Pistons (.912)
• 3.250" Forged Stroker Crank (2.123)
• 5.400" H-Beam Rods Price $3,195.99
Short blocks consist of a balanced rotating assembly plus blueprinting and complete assembly in a fresh 302 block
Add on if needed
Precision Balancing $170.00 (Minimum balance charge)
Custom Pistons $225.00 O-Ring Block $120
Heat Treat Crank $170.00 Tap for 1/2 head studs $120
Blueprint Crankshaft $400.00
C&A Zero Gap Rings $100.00


BOLD

[gt350mustang]

tim, if you consider this shit talking, sorry. i have asked you before and not recieved an answer.. what are your goals for your car? i cannot recommend one over another until i understand your performance goals and the other equipment involved. from what i can tell you want a fast car. what is fast to you? are you trying to build something that will beat all others? drag machine ? fast daily driver? i don't normally recommend a stroker when the stock block will be used. you can go plenty fast on a 302/306.

i am not doing the work this time.....i have a guy i know building it and martin motoin is going to be the only people working on it....and it is going to be a track car and a very expencive street car due to the fact i am going to be running 12:1 compression with a 200 shot of NOS....it is going to be a solid roller enigne...just need to know where you guys think i should get my short block. Who is the best????...Who has the best rep????....reason i am not going to work on it is cuase i will not get pissed when it does not run right....i will be going out of town tuesday for 3 months so the car will be ready for me when i get back.....:burnout:

my goals for the car itself is to see a 8sec pass someday.....

as for the engine i am getting built high 9's

i know some people are going to say ""o you will never see a 8sec pass"" but it is my goal:D

[illfated]

why not get a 351w and the wiring harness/intake/injectors/etc of off a 91 lightening? you could probobly get all of that stuff for about tha same price, if not cheaper than those short blocks that your lookin at. and if you find that tha 351 isnt what you want, er you cant get the performance out of it that you want, then stroke it out. something else i would do is call up westside machine, and tell them what your goals are, and see what kind of price they give you when you ask them to build it for you. just some thoughts.:)

remeber.... there is no replacement for displacement. if i were in your shoes, i would probobly start with a 351w swap first, and then go from there.

[89 coupe]

I wont say you cant do it but be prepared to spend hundreds of hours working on the car and thousands of dollars. You will probably need around $50,000 or more just to make your first 8 second pass, and this is if everything was done right the first time. You could easily spend $100,000 for the first run if you want the best stuff plus all the extra's you need.
I am the crew chief and best friend of Alex Ekrot who has now ran an 8.48. I've been an auto technician for over 20 years and he is an electrical engineer so we had an idea of what we were getting into before we bought the car. He bought a car that had already ran in the eights a few times and over the last three years we have probably put in 1000 hours of work on this car and who knows how much money he has spent. It is usually thousands, not hundreds when you need to make a repair or an upgrade. We had to learn how to do it all ourselves. Everyone that was paid did something wrong. We have blown up two motors (just a short block like his is $10,000) and one trans, which is probably not real bad after talking to some of the other racers. We now need a larger supercharger,$5,000 plus stronger fuel pumps to support the blower, At least another $1,000. Make sure this is what you want to do. It is a whole lot cheaper and easier to stay 10 seconds or slower.
I could build another car like mine from a stock Mustang for less than $10,000 and it runs 10's.
Here is a picture of money
http://members.mustangworks.com/mkeefer/ennis2001-qual025.jpg

[Traceman]

I already have you a 69 351w block and rotating assembly. It is already machined .040 over and ready to assemble. Actually was assembled but I wanted to get it Torque plate honed so I disassembled it. But to make that power you will just want the block anyway. It has not been run since machine work.

I am getting an aftermarket block so I will not be using it.

If interested let me know.

i have 75% of the parts for the 331 that is why i am not going to a 351w based block...cause then i would have to buy everything again....i am aware of what i am getting myself into....it all takes time and money that is why i said it was my goal...i wish i had the cash to do it over night......and the people that are working on my car are the best....shit i wish i had 100k to blow :burnout:

with new combo i am getting i am looking at about 6k complete for everything

[HoustonLX]

Originally posted by Blue306lx
i have 75% of the parts for the 331 that is why i am not going to a 351w based block...cause then i would have to buy everything again....i am aware of what i am getting myself into....it all takes time and money that is why i said it was my goal...i wish i had the cash to do it over night......and the people that are working on my car are the best....shit i wish i had 100k to blow :burnout:

with new combo i am getting i am looking at about 6k complete for everything

For the power your looking to make out of a 302 based block, I would step up to atleast a Sportsman block if not a A4 or R302 block. Thats gonna really add to the cost. Then your gonna have to do something about building up the tranny and a good rear. Also you will need a roll bar or cage. Still looking at $6k complete???

[red95gts]

Originally posted by Blue306lx
with new combo i am getting i am looking at about 6k complete for everything

A good rule of thumb is to sit down and figure out exactly how much time and money you're gonna need do any car project. Be sure to budget for the smallest items and misc stuff...

Then double the money and triple the time and you're pretty close to what will actually happen....

[89 coupe]

If you don't have the rotating assembly then build a 347. Cubic inches is horsepower. Thats what we have in Alex's car.
Now if you want to make 1000 HP or more to run an 8 second time you need a 4 bolt block, billet crank, good rods (we use Oliver billet rods) and nitrous would be the cheapest way to go so you need custom nitrous pistons fly cut to match the heads you will run. Nines on an N/A motor this size requires race heads, high lift cam which will need new valve springs constantly, very high compression, etc. We went the blower route which cost more up front but doesn't seem to eat pistons like so many of the nitrous cars.
If you are going to run a stock block then I personally would not stroke it. The blocks flex too much. I blew one apart at around 500 HP. Just build a nice 6000RPM normally aspirated motor and if you want you can put a small shot of spray but even that is really pushing it. I wonder every time I run a nitrous pass if I'm going to blow my parts out on the track.

i am not planning on running a 8sec car now...here is what i am getting

331
Compression 12:1 compression
4340 steel crank
4340 H-beam rods
solid roller set up
spyder intake
200 shot of NOS
shifting at 7600rpms
i am going with a new stock 302 block
33 spline with a spool and 3;73 or 4:10 might use the 3.73 since i already have some

i plan on running this for awhile and get good at running the car then saving for a blower motor

[89 coupe]

200 shot of Nitrous and 7600 RPM's means you will need a $2,000 4 bolt block. The stock block will blow apart. The block's structure is not strong enough for this. It will flex enough to blow the freeze plugs out of it if it doesn't split in two first.
Like I said before Tim, Stock stroke and 6000RPM's max. This is my opinion. Some people get away with more but its usually just a matter of time before it let's go.
The steel crank is a good idea because that is what broke on mine when I had an S-trim blower. I also had a main girdle to help hold the block together. The problem is the steel crank weighs more than the stock crank so it causes the block to flex more. I rebuilt mine with all stock parts in the bottom end. I did not want to ruin a good crank when the block broke. I decided to build what I could afford and make a list of what I want to do in the future.
I also want to run 8's and have figured I need about $30,000 to do this right and my car already run's high 10's.
Now you could buy Traceman's 351 block which is a pre 1974 model (stronger) and get some serious horsepower out of it. I know of several people who use one of these with forged steel parts, turn 7500 RPM's and run in the 9's with nitrous. These blocks are a lot stronger. You will need more than $6,000 to go this route and will not run 8's unless your very lucky but you could build something I believe you would be happy with. You could also sell the parts you don't need to help offset the cost. I don't mean to sound negative about what you want to do, I've been there and am just trying to nudge you in the right direction. Like I said before, if you want to run fast it cost a lot of money.
For us to run eights with a big Vortec blower and only 347 cubic inches we turn right at 9,000 RPM's which requires all the high dollar part's.

[HoustonLX]

Originally posted by Blue306lx
i am not planning on running a 8sec car now...here is what i am getting

331
Compression 12:1 compression
4340 steel crank
4340 H-beam rods
solid roller set up
spyder intake
200 shot of NOS
shifting at 7600rpms
i am going with a new stock 302 block
33 spline with a spool and 3;73 or 4:10 might use the 3.73 since i already have some

i plan on running this for awhile and get good at running the car then saving for a blower motor

Like Martin said, no way in hell a stock block will hold that. If you do insist on going this route, include a broom and garbage can to clean up the mess the first trip down the track.

what i am looking at on the price of a 302 svo block and all the machine work it needs..price????

[TRAXX]

Originally posted by HoustonLX


Like Martin said, no way in hell a stock block will hold that. If you do insist on going this route, include a broom and garbage can to clean up the mess the first trip down the track.

Like Martin and Shane said, its not going to work. RPMs is what kills a stock block. The reason why you dont see many stock 302 blocks going past the 550 HP range is anything above that mark requires spinning the motor above 6250 RPMs (stock rev limiter). 7600 RPMs? forget it.

if you do decide to use a stock block, put a girdle on it so that you dont have as many piece to sweep up.:razz:

Originally posted by HoustonLX


Like Martin said, no way in hell a stock block will hold that. If you do insist on going this route, include a broom and garbage can to clean up the mess the first trip down the track.


lol...damn that bad....just need to get some prices on what it will cost to do it right.....and what rpm range can you yeild on soild roller set up on a stock block......will it take 6500rpms....if so then i will get just the short block i posted and cut down the NOS to 150 i think that will be fine...then save what 10k to build the short block i want.....

i was looking at this...but i found out that the compression is like 8.5 with 60cc heads......i have AFR 185 heads with 54cc chamber this would not work would it....if so what would i have to do to get at 12:1 compression??

here is the info


337 A4 block,built by Bennet Racing,7500 new. Heres some spec on it: Block has been,align honed,deck squared,modified oiling,and o-ringed. The internals are a SCAT Pro Series Billet steel crank,internal balanced,Eagle H beam forged steel rods,Ross custom dished pistons,etc.. Comes with ATI balancer,Reactor Flexplate,Canton oil pan,timing chain,cover,lifters,oil pump and pick up. Has a turbo grind camshaft and blower camshaft extra. Have documentation on block. $4500obo

[89 coupe]

Originally posted by Blue306lx
i was looking at this...but i found out that the compression is like 8.5 with 60cc heads......i have AFR 185 heads with 54cc chamber this would not work would it....if so what would i have to do to get at 12:1 compression??

here is the info


337 A4 block,built by Bennet Racing,7500 new. Heres some spec on it: Block has been,align honed,deck squared,modified oiling,and o-ringed. The internals are a SCAT Pro Series Billet steel crank,internal balanced,Eagle H beam forged steel rods,Ross custom dished pistons,etc.. Comes with ATI balancer,Reactor Flexplate,Canton oil pan,timing chain,cover,lifters,oil pump and pick up. Has a turbo grind camshaft and blower camshaft extra. Have documentation on block. $4500obo
OK now your talking about something that will hold up. Buy it and take it to Westside machine, let them go through it to make sure everything is good. You will need a different set of pistons to raise the compression. Let them help you get the right set, probably another set of Ross custom piston's most likely. Contact Ed Curtis at http://www.flowtechinduction.com/ and let him cut you a custom cam and he can also help you with the correct valve springs you will need. He sells those heads. With bigger heads and a nice nitrous system you will be on your way towards your first nine second run. With your heads N/A you can run 10's if everything is matched up and tuned right but the bottom end should hold up to a lot more. Tim this would be a nice motor and would handle a lot of RPM's.

[89 coupe]

Originally posted by Blue306lx
what i am looking at on the price of a 302 svo block and all the machine work it needs..price????
Last I checked an R-302 block with necessary machine work was around $2,200 empty.

will do....have any idea how i could get rid of the pistons and the 2 blower cams that come with it.....know what i should ask for the stuff since i would not have no use for it.......yeah coustom pistons i would need cause i have already cut 20ths off the head..going from a 58cc chamber to a 54cc...thanks for all the info

[gt350mustang]

337 A4 block,built by Bennet Racing,7500 new. Heres some spec on it: Block has been,align honed,deck squared,modified oiling,and o-ringed. The internals are a SCAT Pro Series Billet steel crank,internal balanced,Eagle H beam forged steel rods,Ross custom dished pistons,etc.. Comes with ATI balancer,Reactor Flexplate,Canton oil pan,timing chain,cover,lifters,oil pump and pick up. Has a turbo grind camshaft and blower camshaft extra. Have documentation on block. $4500obo



how about i buy that motor , put it in my car and see if it will run 9's. that way you will know what it takes.

lol....yeah right....i should have it shipped to my father in laws shop in a few days:fu: ......but if you are interested in the pistons i can hook you up...the pistons that are in there now will not make 12:1 like i need.....it also comes with to blower cams i have no use for those will be forsale also

this stuff will be forsale once i get it


Ross custom dished pistons
ATI balancer
Reactor Flexplate
Canton oil pan
timing chain
cover
lifters
oil pump and pick up

[gt350mustang]

no problem :fu: my credit card company is begging me to buy the dart block anyway. i need a new motor for next season.

[Blue91]

Joe, I have your decals. You can stop by this weekend if you want. I have class all week till late, and then have "work" to do this weekend.

Thanks!

:fu: :fu: :fu: :fu:

[89 coupe]

Originally posted by Blue306lx
this stuff will be forsale once i get it


Ross custom dished pistons
ATI balancer
Reactor Flexplate
Canton oil pan
timing chain
cover
lifters
oil pump and pick up

Tim you will probably need the balancer and flexplate unless what you have is for a zero balance (internal balance). Your stuff is probably for a 50 oz inbalance which is stock late model Ford. If I was you I would probably use the rest of the parts also and sell your parts. If the shop your sending the stuff to does not balance motors then use Westside. You may need to rebalance with different pistons. They will need the flexplate and balancer to do this properly. I'm really trying to help you out so do not go and F##K up this motor. The last motor we built for Alex's race car came back apart 4 times before everything was right. Just make sure whoever you use works on these types of motor's. They are not the same as slapping together a stock short block. The bearing clearances are different and so are other clearances in a motor like this. Just a little to tight on the bearings and it will come apart if you ever start running some serious RPM's and horsepower. The motor we built uses Chevy race rod bearings. Thats the way a lot of billet cranks are made for the Ford blocks. They are wider and the edge toward the crank is chamfered and special bearings are required. If you spray it with a big shot of nitrous and the piston ring gap is just a little to tight, it will rip the top of the piston off before the end of the quarter mile. There are many other things that need to be checked out and done properly and if it is right you will have a very nice motor but just get something a little bit off and you can destroy the motor.

will do......what type of injectors to get.....i have already order the spyder intake set up